Do not be misled by the name, which has nothing to do with Scottish castles perched on top of the misty Highlands, but more with the more tortuous Colli Albani (Alban Hills) which are studded with 13 towns referred to precisely as the Castelli Romani.
A favourite holiday resort or simply a retreat for the nobility and wealthy ever since the days of the Roman Empire, today’s Romans still head straight here during the sweltering summer heat.
An absolute “must” is a visit to Frascati, dominated by the imposing sixteenth century Villa Aldobrandini, whose splendid façade, with its Italian gardens, aristocratically stands out above the entire village.
If you prefer a more medieval style, then you should make for nearby Grottaferrata, which is largely identified with the Monastery of Saint Nilus The Younger and founded by Basilian monks from Bizantine Calabria.
However the Castelli are also renowned for the small towns nestling around its volcanic lakes such as Castel Gandolfo, the Pope’s summer residence overlooking Lake Albano. Weather permitting, it is well worth going for a refreshing swim or relaxing in one of the many lake-side cafés.
For a wonderful panorama of the lavish countryside and inviting blue waters, you could do no better than drop into Nemi. This small town overlooks the lake of the same name on whose banks we find the Museum of Roman Ships (Museo delle Navi Romane), built by Fascist Dictator Benito Mussolini to house two ships constructed on the orders of Roman Emperor Caligula which were salvaged between 1927 and 1932 on Mussolini ordering the lowering of the lake.
Moving further on, we come across even more fascinating ruins and breathtaking views. However the Castelli Romani zone is also well-known for its cuisine and locally-produced white wine. Where better though to relax and enjoy all this than in one of the local “Fraschette”, taverns only to be found in this zone. More often than not located in revamped cellars, there is no finer place to savour the olives, cheeses, porchetta (a savory and moist boneless pork roast) and a whole array of typical Roman dishes. Ariccia may be the “Fraschette” capital, but the other towns certainly do not fall short of the mark: Monte Porzio Catone, Montecompatri, Rocca Priora, Colonna, Rocca di Papa, Marino, Albano Laziale and Genzano… the truth of the matter is that one is just spoilt for choice !
